Sometimes a crack in a poured concrete basement wall will leak when exposed to outside water. Water travels via the path of least resistance, so a crack in the basement wall provides a way for water to enter the basement. If your Missouri basement is unfinished, the invasion may not be so bad; with a finished basement, that leaking wall crack can become a real nuisance and may cause considerable damage.
How To Fix Foundation Cracks With Water
Here’s the good news: leaking wall cracks can be repaired and waterproofed. One cost-effective way to fix a leaking wall crack is to inject the crack with a special material and process that seals the wall and stops the water from coming in.
Before the crack is repaired it is important to identify the source or origin of the water leak. Many times a misdirected downspout or clogged gutter is the cause. If the ground outside the home is graded toward the foundation or is too high, water is directed toward the basement allowing water to enter cracks that are present.
Diverting water away from your St. Louis home or repairing damaged downspouts should be your first course of action. Once the outside source of water is identified, focus may be directed to the crack on the inside. Here is how the crack is typically repaired:
- The crack is exposed and cleaned up.
- A series of small injection ports are attached to the wall along the crack. If the crack is very tight a small hole is drilled into the crack so that the material will penetrate.
- Starting from the bottom of the wall, a hydrophilic polyurethane material is injected into the ports to fill cracks. Water is used as a catalyst for the material.
- Once the crack is injected, the ports are removed and a material is applied over the length of the crack as a water seal.
This process takes less than a day and is very cost effective for a homeowner. A crack injection repair, coupled with removing the water from the outside, can be a long-term or even a permanent repair. Selecting a trustworthy, local basement waterproofing company like Kent Foundation Repair is essential. These professionals typically have far more experience and are much better equipped than a general contractor or handyman.
*Kent Foundation Repair only offers Basement Waterproofing at our St. Louis service area.
Basement walls help the structure of a home stay sound, which is reason enough to keep them properly maintained when planning a basement remodel. Water pressure from the soil surrounding the foundation, or freezing and thawing during temperature changes, can cause basement walls to crack.
Basement wall repairs are best done with a caulking gun and an epoxy-based resin. To heal most cracks, particularly those in the mortar between concrete block, you can place the tip of the tube of epoxy into the crack and squeeze the trigger to apply the sealant. If the crack requires two coats of epoxy, then allow first layer of sealant to dry before applying a second.
Many do-it-yourself kits are available for these basement wall repairs. The kits often include everything necessary for repairing cracks, such as tools and application instructions, not just for concrete block but poured walls, too.
If a wall crack is horizontal or appears to run in line with a crack in the floor, then there may be a deeper structural issue. In this instance, it is best to consult a professional for an evaluation that could help prevent a much bigger problem.
Concrete consists primarily of cement, sand, gravel and water. As the water in the slurry evaporates, the remaining ingredients cure into a hard, monolithic slab. Unfortunately, the curing process causes the concrete to shrink slightly, often resulting in hairline cracks.
Larger stress cracks occur when a house settles or the ground beneath it shifts. These types of cracks typically don’t threaten the structural integrity of the house, but they do create an entry point for groundwater, insects and radon gas. Here, we’ll show you a simple, effective way to patch cracks in poured concrete walls.
If you notice large, recurring cracks or bulging walls at your house, don’t try to fix these conditions yourself. The cracks might indicate a more serious structural problem; call in a structural engineer for an in-depth evaluation.
Several masonry patching products, such as hydraulic cement, do an adequate job of filling cracks in concrete walls. However, these products can fail after a few years if your foundation or retaining wall continues to move slightly, leaving you with little choice but to chip them out and start all over again.
Before you start, check to make sure the crack is dry. If the crack is slightly damp, dry it with a blow-dryer, then wait 15 minutes. If it remains dry, proceed with the repair.
However, if the dampness returns, water is still seeping into the crack and you’ll have to wait for it to dry out on its own.
Concrete Wall Crack Repair in 8 Steps
Use an Epoxy-Injection System for Basement Wall Crack Repair
We repaired a foundation wall, which had an 8-ft.-long crack that leaked water into the basement during periods of heavy rainfall. To permanently patch the crack we used an epoxy-injection system from Polygem, called the Liquid Concrete Repair Kit ($60).
Each kit contains a two-part epoxy crack sealer, two 10-oz. tubes of Liquid Concrete Repair (LCR), a viscous epoxy that comes in a caulk-type cartridge, and seven plastic injection ports that deliver the LCR deep into the crack. There’s enough material in each kit to repair a 1/16-in.-wide x 8-in.-deep x 8-ft.-long crack.
Step 1: Scrub it Clean
First, scrub the crack clean of any loose concrete, paint or old filler using a wire brush. Remove all dust and debris with a shop vacuum.
Step 2: Use a Nail to Align Injection Points
Tap 3-in. (10d) finishing nails partway into the crack, spaced 12 in. apart. You'll use them to align the injection ports with the crack.
Open up the two containers of epoxy crack sealer and scoop out equal amounts of Part A and Part B; use two separate sticks to avoid contamination.
Mix the two parts on a scrap board using a clean putty knife; blend until you achieve a uniform gray color.
Step 4: Spread the Sealer onto Base
Spread some sealer onto the base of one of the plastic injection ports, being careful not to plug up its hole. Slide the port over one of the nails sticking out of the crack and press it to the wall.
Install the remaining ports in a similar manner.
Step 5: Mix and Apply a Larger Batch of Epoxy Sealer
Next, mix up a slightly larger batch of epoxy sealer and apply it to the entire crack using a 1 1/2-in.-wide putty knife or margin trowel.
Spread the sealer about 1/8 in. thick and 1 in. on either side of the crack. Also, cover the entire flange of each injection port with crack sealer, leaving only the extended neck portion showing. Smooth out the sealer and feather its edges with a paintbrush dipped in mineral spirits.
If the other side of the wall is accessible, see if the crack goes clean through. If it does, seal it up with crack sealer, too. Allow the sealer to cure for 6 to 10 hours before injecting the epoxy.
Thoroughly mix the LCR epoxy using the plunger rod that comes with the kit. Place the LCR cartridge into a caulk gun. Starting at the lowest injection port, dispense the epoxy into the crack.
Step 7: Fill Up the Ports
Continue squeezing the trigger until epoxy begins to ooze out of the port directly above. Remove the gun and plug up the port you just filled.
Now insert the cartridge tip into the port that's oozing and squeeze the trigger to dispense the epoxy. Repeat this procedure for the remaining ports; plug up each one before moving on to the next.
Allow the LCR to cure for five days, then cut off the necks of the ports with a hacksaw. If desired, you can patch the severed ports with a little crack sealer.
Polygem Box 609 Dept. TH700W. Chicago, IL 60186
Polygem
630/231-5600