How to catch feral cat

It is estimated that more than 60 million homeless cats are roaming the parks, parking lots, backyards, alleys, and streets of America. Although so-called feral cats—who have not been socialized and who are often the offspring of other abandoned cats—are fearful of humans, they are still domesticated animals who struggle to fend for themselves and don’t survive for long on their own. Homeless cats do not die of “old age.” Many are tortured by cruel people, attacked by other animals, or hit by cars. Others die of exposure, starvation, or highly contagious fatal diseases, such as rabies, feline AIDS, feline leukemia, and feline infectious peritonitis.

Victims of Humans and Nature

Many people consider homeless cats a “nuisance” for digging in their flowerbeds, seeking shelter under their porches, or climbing on their cars. Some may take matters into their own hands by shooting, drowning, poisoning, or otherwise killing cats in cruel ways. In Kentucky, several cats described as “neighborhood cats” died from apparent poisoning, and another died after being beaten to death or hit by a car.1 A cat in Massachusetts who was described as “a barn cat” was found “screaming” and “dragging himself home” after becoming trapped in a snare that was constricting his stomach. His mouth was lacerated from trying to chew the wire off.2 A surveillance camera at a school in California captured footage of a man torturing and killing a cat by “kicking and punching” the animal and dragging him or her by a rope.3 These are only a few examples of the myriad horrible injuries and deaths that outdoor cats must face.

Even easily treatable conditions can be deadly for cats who are not afforded basic veterinary care. Minor cuts or puncture wounds can turn into raging infections and abscesses. Untreated upper-respiratory infections cause cats’ eyes and noses to become so caked with mucus that they can barely see or breathe. Cats often scratch their ears until they bleed, because they’re driven mad by the pain and itching of ear mites and related infections. Others die of blood loss or anemia because of worms or fleas. Urinary tract infections, which frequently lead to urinary blockages in male cats, cause slow and extremely painful deaths if they go untreated.

Also, outdoor cats pose a threat to wildlife. The journal Nature Communications reports that domestic cats “have been listed among the 100 worst non-native invasive species in the world.”4 In addition to killing up to 4 billion birds and 22 billion mammals every year, “free-ranging cats have caused or contributed to 33 (14%) of the modern bird, mammal and reptile extinctions.” An Australian study found that free-roaming cats kill at least a million birds a day there, and the lead researcher concluded that “the amount of predation is staggering, and is likely to be driving the ongoing decline of many species.”5

Cats Can’t Live on ‘Bread’ Alone

It’s not enough merely to feed cats without capturing them to ensure their safety: This can actually make the situation worse. Just feeding colonies of homeless cats means that they will give birth to more kittens, who are destined to suffer and die painful deaths, too. It is essential to get these animals off the streets in order to prevent them and their offspring from suffering. Feeding should only be seen as a prelude to trapping, as a way of getting cats accustomed to eating in a certain place at a certain time. Otherwise, feeding just serves to help homeless cat populations proliferate.

Trapping Do’s and Don’ts

Before trapping any cats, obtain written permission from the owner of the property on which they congregate. Wear thick gloves if you plan to handle kittens or cats, as unsocialized or frightened cats can easily injure you (or themselves). Be gentle: Even humane (box) traps terrify animals who feel vulnerable and defenseless when confined.

Line the bottom of the trap with a thick piece of cloth, a folded newspaper, or an old towel. Make sure it does not interfere with closing the door or the trap’s spring mechanism. The animal will feel more secure walking in without walking on wire, and will be afforded a small measure of comfort. Do not use the same towel or cloth again for the same purpose unless you have thoroughly washed it—animals are very sensitive to smells and may be apprehensive.

Do not set a trap and then leave it unattended, even for a few minutes. Anything could happen while you’re away. Set your trap, then back off, but stay within sight of it. Be patient. Plan to do your trapping when you have enough time to wait. Avoid trapping in bad or extremely hot weather. Cats are most likely to be out and about during early-morning or late-evening hours.

Place the trap on firm, level ground so that it does not wobble when touched. Orient it in such a way that when the cats enter, they can keep an eye on you or whatever danger that they would rather not turn their backs on.

Create a small trail of food that runs from outside the trap all the way inside toward a large pile of food at the very back. Use smelly food as bait, and place it on a paper plate or a piece of newspaper. Avoid putting it in a container as trapped animals may initially thrash once the door closes, and a container could cause injury.

Immediately after the cat enters the trap, cover it with a towel or a blanket (in cold weather) or a sheet (in hot weather). Trapped animals calm down more quickly when they are covered. Be sure they can breathe freely.

Gently carry the trap to your vehicle with both hands. The cat will be frightened, so be aware that even small movements or noises can cause additional stress. Don’t slam doors or play loud music. Be careful not to swing the trap from side to side or tilt it as you walk or turn.

Always use a vehicle. Even if the animal you want to trap is only a few blocks away, drive or have a friend drive you to the site in order to limit the distance the trap must be carried. This is the safest and the least stressful way to handle it for all involved.

Decide ahead of time where you will take the cat, and make arrangements ahead of time. Never assume that the animal will be accepted as a walk-in. If you plan to try to rehabilitate and adopt out the cat, it is best to take him or her straight to a veterinarian to be spayed or neutered, vaccinated, tested for feline leukemia and feline AIDS, and treated for worm and flea infestations.

If it isn’t possible to take the cat directly to a veterinarian or an animal shelter, transfer him or her to a larger carrier that’s equipped with a litter pan, food, and water by putting the open carrier next to the trap and opening the trap door. Never turn unsocialized cats loose in the house—you may not see them again for days, and it may be difficult to trap them again when you’re planning to take them to a veterinarian or an animal shelter.

After bringing cats home from the vet, put them in a quiet room separated from other animals for a week or two; this will allow them to recover from surgery and become accustomed to their new surroundings. When the cats have recuperated, they can be released into the house (never allow any cat outside). Be patient: If they are truly feral, it may take months (or years) of kindness for them to trust you. However, many homeless cats are not feral at all: They are friendly animals who are simply frightened and can come around fairly quickly.

Because of the huge number of homeless cats and the severe shortage of loving, committed homes, the difficulty of socialization, and the dangers lurking where most unsocialized cats live, it is sometimes necessary—and compassionate—to have feral cats euthanized. You can ask your veterinarian to help or, if your local animal shelter euthanizes via an injection of sodium pentobarbital, take the cats there. Please do not allow the prospect of euthanasia to deter you from trapping homeless cats. If you leave them where they are, they will certainly die a prolonged and painful death. A painless death is far kinder than the fate that homeless cats will meet if left to fend for themselves.

Where to Get a Trap

If your local animal shelter can’t lend you a box trap, invest in one of your own. Cat traps typically cost about $40 to $50 and are available online or at most hardware and feed-and-seed stores.

References

1Steve Rogers, “Frankfort Police Open Criminal Investigation Into Cat Deaths,” WTVQ.com, 30 Sept. 2020.

2Christine McCarthy, “Norton Family’s Cat Injured by Illegal Wire Snare Trap,” Boston25News.com, 30 Sept. 2020.

3“Esparto Man Arrested on Suspicion of Animal Cruelty,” DailyDemocrat.com, 30 Sept. 2020

4Scott R. Loss et al., “The Impact of Free-Ranging Domestic Cats on Wildlife of the United States,” Nature Communications, 29 Jan. 2013.

5Lia Eustachewich, “Feral Cats Are Driving Some Birds to the Brink of Extinction,” New York Post, 4 Oct. 2017.

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Background

Feral cats prey upon a wide range of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects. In some areas of Australia, especially many of the offshore islands, feral cats represent a significant threat to vulnerable and endangered native fauna. They may also have an indirect adverse impact on wildlife and livestock through the transmission of diseases such as toxoplasmosis and sarcosporidiosis. A variety of control methods have been used including shooting, trapping, poison baiting and exclusion fencing. Although cage trapping is considered an ineffective tool for large areas, it may be useful in urban/residential areas where domestic cats are present, or where populations have already been reduced and individual cats need to be targeted.

In urban/residential areas, cage traps are preferred over leg hold traps as fewer injuries are sustained, non-target animals can be released unharmed and trapped feral cats can be transported away from the area for euthanasia. Soft net traps may also useful for capturing individual problem animals in similar situations – refer to GEN003 Trapping using soft net traps. Padded-jaw, leg-hold traps should only be used at sites where the animal can be killed by shooting whilst still held in the trap. Leg-hold traps may be more effective than cage traps for hard-to-catch cats that have had minimal exposure to humans. Refer to CAT003 Trapping of feral cats using padded-jaw traps.

This standard operating procedure (SOP) is a guide only; it does not replace or override the legislation that applies in the relevant state or territory jurisdiction. The SOP should only be used subject to the applicable legal requirements (including OH&S) operating in the relevant jurisdiction.

Application

  • Trapping is time-consuming and labour intensive and is therefore an inefficient method for large-scale feral cat control in Australia. It can be effective in controlling problem individuals in urban and semi-urban areas.
  • Cats are naturally cautious animals and can be reluctant to enter the enclosed space of a cage trap. Also, if food sources are readily available they may not be hungry enough to approach a baited trap.
  • Trapping in non-urban areas should be restricted to late autumn and early winter when food availability is generally low and the likelihood of non-target species capture is reduced.
  • Traps have the potential to cause significant suffering and distress so should only be used when there is no suitable alternative.
  • Selection of appropriate traps and trap sites will maximise chance of capture and minimise the distress caused to target and non-target animals.
  • Every effort must be made to avoid target and non-target deaths from factors such as exposure or shock.

How to catch feral cat

Trapped feral cat wearing a tracking device. Image: Andrew Bengsen

  • Before euthanasing a trapped cat it must first be established that it is a feral cat, rather than a domestic pet or stray cat. Look for a collar and identification/ registration tag and scan for a microchip.
  • It is recommended that the public be notified before commencement of a feral cat trapping program so that they can take action to protect their domestic cats. Trapping is most effective at night, so, if cat owners follow recommendations to keep their cats confined between dusk and dawn, the chance of trapping owned cats will be minimised.
  • Once it has been established that the trapped cat is feral, it should be euthanased in a humane manner. This can be performed either by an authorised person at an animal shelter, council pound or veterinarian or by shooting while still in the cage at an appropriate site away from urban/residential areas.
  • Traps must be used in accordance with relevant state and territory legislation (see Table 1). In some states, for example, Western Australia, a permit may be required to trap within certain municipalities.
  • Shooting of feral cats should only be performed by skilled operators who have the necessary experience with firearms and who hold the appropriate licences and accreditation. Storage and transportation of firearms and ammunition must comply with relevant legislation requirements.

Animal welfare considerations

Impact on target animals

  • Feral cats are likely to suffer distress from being confined in a cage trap and they can sometimes be injured while trying to escape. Facial injuries are common.
  • Traps must be inspected daily to prevent suffering and possible death from exposure, dehydration, starvation and/or shock.
  • It is preferable to set up traps at sites where vegetation can provide shade and shelter.
  • Shade cloth or hessian can be for used for protection during extremes of weather. In hot weather, water should be provided and in cold weather bedding should be available inside the cage. Where possible, trapping should be avoided when adverse weather conditions threaten the welfare of trapped animals.
  • Captured animals must be approached carefully and quietly to reduce panic, further stress and risk of injury.
  • Trapped feral cats must be killed as quickly and humanely as possible.
  • If transporting a trapped cat away from the capture site to be euthanased, the cage should be covered with hessian or a blanket to provide shelter from direct sunlight, wind and rain and to minimise stress from visual threats. Cats must not be transported in enclosed car boots.
  • To minimise the animal welfare implications of leaving dependant kittens to die a slow death from starvation, it is preferable not to undertake trapping when females are lactating eg September to March in non-urban habitats. There is a high probability that any female cat over six months old that is caught during this time will be pregnant or lactating.
  • If lactating females are caught in a trap, efforts should be made to find dependent kittens and kill them quickly and humanely. Litters may be found near to the trap site in the base of hollow tree trunks, among boulders etc.

Impact on non-target animals

  • Traps are not target specific, therefore other species such as birds and reptiles may be caught.
    Traps must not be set near areas that are regularly frequented by non-target species.
  • Live non-target animals caught in traps must be examined for injuries and signs of illness or distress and dealt with as follows:
  • Animals which are unharmed or have only received minimal injuries such as minor cuts or abrasions should be immediately released at the site of capture.
  • Animals which have more severe injuries or which are suffering from thermal stress should receive appropriate attention. An animal suffering from thermal stress can initially be placed in a suitable quiet holding area which provides warmth or shade to allow recovery before release. Animals with treatable injuries that cannot be immediately released or those failing to recover from thermal stress should be presented to a veterinarian or a registered wildlife carer for treatment.
  • Animals that have injuries which are untreatable or which would compromise their survival in the wild should be euthanased using a technique that is suitable for the species. For more information on euthanasia techniques refer to GEN001 Methods of euthanasia.
  • If a domestic pet is caught, it should be taken to the nearest animal shelter, council pound or veterinarian where it can be scanned for a microchip and the owner contacted, or assessed as to suitability for re-homing.
  • If wild dogs or foxes are caught in the trap they must be euthanased quickly and humanely (refer to DOG002 Trapping of wild dogs using cage traps and FOX006 Trapping of foxes using cage traps).

Health and safety considerations

  • Trapped feral cats can be dangerous to handle. They will be nervous and aggressive and can inflict serious injuries with teeth and claws. If these cats are killed whilst still in the cage, there should be no need to handle them directly. However, if handling is necessary, leather gloves and a catching pole, or a crush should be used. Operators must be protected by tetanus immunisation in case of infection of scratches and bites. Bite wounds often result in serious infections and should be treated by a doctor.
  • Firearms are hazardous. All people should stand well behind the shooter when a cat is being shot. The line of fire must be chosen to prevent accidents or injury from stray bullets or ricochets.
  • Care must be taken when handling live cats and carcases as they may carry diseases such as toxoplasmosis, ringworm and sarcosporidiosis that can affect humans and other animals. Routinely wash hands after handling all carcasses.

Equipment required

Traps

  • Wire mesh cage traps are used. These can be obtained from commercial suppliers and are available in a variety of sizes (eg 740 x 310 x 310 mm, made of 2.5  mm welded wire with a mesh size of 12.5 x 25 mm). The traps have a spring door that is activated either by a treadle plate or hook mechanism. Only traps with treadle plates are recommended for catching cats as the hook mechanism can cause injuries to the trapped cat and handling and/or transferring of the cat is easier through the rear plate of the cage. Also, cats normally eat from the ground and may not take food from the hook.

How to catch feral cat

Lures

  • A variety of olfactory, visual or auditory stimuli may be used to lure cats into the trap. Olfactory lures include synthetic fermented egg, catnip, tuna oil, cat urine and anal gland preparation and also soiled cat litter from a cattery. Visual lures such as bird feathers and cotton wool can be used, although these may not be needed if the trap is clearly visible or the
    meat bait has a strong odour. Cat calling machines or ‘field attraction phonic’ devices, which emit a cat meowing sound, can also be used as a lure.
  • The attractiveness of lures will vary with season and location.

Meat baits

  • A handful of meat bait is placed at the rear of the cage.
  • Rabbit, chicken (including fried), beef, fish, lamb, kangaroo, tinned cat food, sardines and tuna have all been successfully used as bait.
  • Capture efficiency may be improved by using bait that reflects the cat’s staple prey for the area rather than being novel.
  • Attractiveness and palatability of the bait will vary with season and location.

Firearms and ammunition

  • Where shooting is the most appropriate means of euthanasia, firearms no smaller than a .17 calibre rimfire with hollow/soft point ammunition are recommended for euthanasia.
  • The accuracy and precision of firearms should be tested against inanimate targets prior to the commencement of any shooting operation.

Procedures

Selection of trap sites

  • Traps should be set in areas where cats are known to be active and may be placed under bushes, beside vehicle tracks and at rabbit warrens.
  • The location of all trap sites must be accurately recorded. This information should be readily available to others in case the trapper is unable to return to check the traps.
  • Do not place traps in areas where they may be interfered with /damaged by large stock or humans.

Placing and setting the trap

  • Before setting each trap ensure that it is functioning properly.
  • It may be useful to partially enclose the trap in a large hessian bag to prevent the cats from attempting to take the bait through the side or back of the trap. This also helps to reduce the visibility of bait to non-target species such as raptors and corvids.
  • Cage traps should be set squarely on the ground and the doors of the trap bent upward to increase the openness of the trap space.
  • The trap should be pegged to the ground to prevent the cat or some other animal from tipping it over and injuring itself and/or releasing the trap door.
  • Place meat baits inside the trap and lures in suitable positions inside and outside of the trap.
    Cage traps should be clear of vegetation so that the cat can walk completely around the trap before entering.
  • It is preferable to set traps at the end of each day and check early each morning. When traps are open during the day there is a greater risk of birds, such as magpies and currawongs, entering and triggering the trap.
  • If traps need to be left open during the day, they should be checked again in late afternoon.

Identification of feral cats

  • Feral cats are similar in appearance to domestic cats; however when in good physical condition, the feral cat has increased overall muscle development, which is especially noticeable around the head, neck and shoulders, giving the animal a more robust appearance.
  • Feral cats are predominately short-haired with coat colours ranging between ginger, tabby, tortoiseshell, grey and black. White markings may be present, particularly on the chest, paws and abdomen, but completely white cats are very rare.
    Ginger cats are more likely to be found in semi-arid and desert areas, while grey and black cats are found in scrub and forests.
  • Domestic cats may be quite docile and easily handled, but some will become anxious and distressed in cage traps and will resemble feral cats unless they are identified with a collar and tag.

How to catch feral cat

Diagram 1: Recommended shot placements for feral cats Note: Head shots (temporal or frontal) should be used for shooting feral cats caught in traps. See text for details.

How to catch feral cat

Diagram 2: Side view (skeleton)

How to catch feral cat

Diagram 3: Head shot (frontal)

Euthanasia of feral cats

  • Trapped feral cats can be killed humanely using one the following methods:

Overdose of barbiturate

  • These procedures can only be performed by, or under the direction of, a veterinarian or other authorised person.
  • An intramuscular or subcutaneous injection of a sedative (ketamine at 20 mg/kg or xylazine at 1–2 mg/kg) can be administered to the cat through the wire mesh without the cat being handled. This is easier to perform if the cage has a ‘crush’ or ‘squeeze-back’ to restrain the cat at one end of the cage. Once the cat is sedated it is euthanased with an intravenous or intraperitoneal injection of sodium pentobarbitone.

If the cat cannot be sedated with an injection, anaesthetic gas (eg halothane or methoxyflurane) or carbon dioxide can be introduced into a plastic bag that has been placed around the cage. The animal will become unconscious quickly and quietly, followed by death after a short period depending on the gas used and its concentration. If preferred, once the animal is unconscious, it may be removed from the cage and euthanased with an intravenous or intraperitoneal injection of pentobarbitone sodium.

Shooting

  • Trapped live feral cats can be euthanased by shooting whilst still held in the cage trap.
  • It can be difficult to shoot feral cats humanely as they become very nervous and agitated when restrained and in the presence of people. Unnecessary people should keep away from the area. The shooter should approach the animal in a calm and quiet manner.
  • Never fire when the cat is moving its head, be patient and wait until the cat is motionless before shooting. Accuracy is important to achieve a humane death. One shot to the head should ensure instantaneous loss of consciousness and rapid death without resumption of consciousness.
  • To maximise the impact of the shot and to minimise the risk of misdirection the range should be as short as possible ie 5—20 cm from the head.
  • Effectiveness of shooting is dependent upon the destruction of major centres at the back of the brain near the spinal cord. This can be achieved by one of the following methods (see Diagrams 1, 2 and 3):

Frontal position (front view)

  • The firearm is aimed at the centre of the head slightly below a line drawn midway between the ears.

Temporal position (side view)

  • Aim horizontally from the side of the head at a point midway between the eye and the base of the ear.
  • Death of shot animals should always be confirmed by observing the following: – Absence of rhythmic, respiratory movements – Absence of eye protection reflex (corneal reflex) or ‘blink’ – A fixed, glazed expression in the eyes – Loss of colour in mucous membranes (become mottled and pale without refill after pressure is applied).

    If death cannot be verified, a second shot to the head should be taken immediately.

Table 1: Relevant state and territory animal welfare and related legislation relevant to the use of traps

References

  1. Australian & New Zealand Council for the Care of Animals in Research and Teaching (2001). Euthanasia of animals used for scientific purposes (2nd Ed). ANZCCART, Glen Osmond, Australia.
  2. Canadian Council on Animal Care (2003). Guidelines on the care and use of wildlife. CCAC, Ottawa, Canada.
  3. Denny EA and Dickman CR (2010). Review of cat ecology and management strategies in Australia. Invasive Animals Cooperative Research Centre, Canberra.
  4. Edwards GP, Piddington KC and Paltridge RM (1997). Field evaluation of olfactory lures for feral cats (Felis catus L.) Wildlife Research 24: 173-183.
  5. Environment Australia (1999). Threat Abatement Plan for Predation by Feral Cats. Biodiversity Group, Environment Australia, Canberra.
  6. Longair JA, Finley GG, Laniel MA, MacKay C, Mould K, Olfert ED, Roswell H and Preston A (1991). Guidelines for euthanasia of domestic animals by firearms. Canadian Veterinary Journal 32:724-726.
  7. Molsher RL (2001). Trapping and demographics of feral cats (Felis catus) in central New South Wales. Wildlife Research 28:631-636.
  8. Nutter FB, Stoskopf MK and Levine JF (2004). Time and financial costs of programs for live trapping feral cats. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 225:1403-1405.
  9. Short J, Turner B and Risbey D (2002). Control of feral cats for nature conservation. III. Trapping. Wildlife Research 29:475-487.
  10. Twyford KL, Humphrey PG, Nunn RP and Willoughby L (2000). Eradication of feral cats (Felis catus) form Gabo Island, south-east Victoria. Ecological Management & Restoration 1:42-49.
  11. UFAW (1980). The Ecology and Control of Feral cats: Proceedings of a symposium held at Royal Holloway College, University of London, 23-24 September, 1980. Universities Federation for Animal Welfare, Potters Bar, England.
  12. UFAW (1988). Humane Killing of Animals (4th ed). Universities Federation for Animal Welfare, Potters Bar, England.
  13. Van de Kuyt N (2001). Cat Management Manual. Department of Natural Resources and Environment, Victoria.

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The Centre for Invasive Species Solutions manages these documents on behalf of the Environment and Invasives Committee (EIC). The authors of these documents have taken care to validate the accuracy of the information at the time of writing. This information has been prepared with care but it is provided “as is”, without warranty of any kind, to the extent permitted by law.

It is important before undertaking a trapping program to ensure you liaise with the relevant government authority to check you have the right permits in place.

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