How to wash a handmade quilt for the first time

I wash all my quilts, after the quilting is done and before the binding is applied. I thought that all quilters do this but after a little research on Internet I came to the conclusion that this a controversial subject. So I will try to explain why I do this.

First of all, I wash all my quilts, no matter what kind of quilts they are (wall hangings, baby quilts or utilitarian quilts) or what I plan to do with them (I keep them for myself, or they are gifts or if I want to sell them).

Some techniques require you to wash the quilts anyway (like trapunto -you have to wash out the water soluble thread, or appliqué – wash out the marking lines). No matter the technique, I wash all my quilts. I can’t say one of my quilts is finished until it is perfectly clean.

Most of my quilts are heavily machine quilted. Even the hand pieced quilts were machine quilted.

Hand pieces, hand quilted quilts

Probably this method of washing is not safe for hand pieced and hand quilted quilts- I can’t say anything about this as I don’t hand quilt. But I know that these quilts require more attention and precaution- do your research if you want to wash your hand pieced and hand quilted quilts.

So, why I wash my quilts before binding is applied?

Because the heavy machine quilting can distort the shape of a quilt. And while the distortion might not be visible at all when the quilting is done, you become aware of it when you wash the quilt for the first time.

The first washing can distort the quilt even if it is not heavily quilted.

After the washing is done and the quilt is still wet, it’s time for blocking- returning the quilt to its proper shape and size while laying flat to dry.
This is a very important step, especially for wall hangings. If the quilt has a perfect shape, it will hang nicely and straight on the wall.

Washing the quilt

• If the quilt is small to medium size, I wash it by hand- I just gently agitate it in water with detergent. I rinse it a few times and then I put it in the washing machine for a spinning cycle ( at 400 rotations/minute) to remove the excess water.
• For some quilts a quick hand washing is not enough (for example, applique quilts with pressed marking lines) and  then I wash the quilt in the washing machine on gentle cycle.
• I also wash the big quilts in the washing machine, on gentle cycle.
  I put the quilt in the washing machine, fill the machine with warm water then let the quilt soak for a few minutes. Only after that I add a little mild detergent, completely dissolved in a lot of water. 

Blocking the quilt

• When the washing cycle is done, I gently remove the quilt from the machine (which much care to not distort it) and lay it on the clean (freshly washed) floor. I have a laminated floor (and no carpet).
• Then I gently smooth it into shape, starting from the center toward the edges.  If you need help to flatten the quilt, you could gently steam press on the back.
• For my quilts with center design and large background around it, this is all I have to do.
• For other quilts we have to measure the quilt on the center and along the edges, making sure they have the same size and also check the corners for right angles. If the quilt is made out of blocks, then all the blocks must be straight and aligned.
• A foam board is very useful if you need to make adjustments- you just have to pin the quilt to hold it in the desired shape.

Drying the quilt

If I don’t dry the quilt on the board used for blocking, here is what I do:

• Once the quilt is nice and flat, I add a plastic sheet to protect the floor and a clean bed sheet on top of it. Then I lay the quilt on top of them and leave it there until it is completely dry.
• If your floor is covered with carpet, protect it the same way. You will be able to pin through the carpet to hold the quilt in place.
• If the quilt is small, I do all these steps on a table.
• If it is too big for my space, I hang it on a rod (or on a cardboard tube) to dry. This is the way I dried my best quilt ever –  it kept the shape really nice (and that’s because most water was removed in the spinning cycle and the additional weight did not distort its shape).

wet quilt hanging to dry

Adding the binding

• Start adding the binding when the quilt is completely dry. It’s a big mistake to work with it sooner, if the quilt is still damp it will develop a lot of creases and you will have to wash it again  – don’t ask how I know this!)
• You have to trim the edges according to the desired shape and size. Then it is ready for binding.
• Of course, you have to do this again on a clean floor!

Precautions

• Find a way to stabilize the outside edges of the quilt top
  If the quilting does not extend right out to the outer edges, baste along those edges. Or you could use a long zig zag stitch to “finish”  the outer raw edges. This keeps the fabric from fraying too. Not anchoring at all the edges of the top to batting and backing and then washing is a mistake.
• Washer with agitator? Honestly, I don’t know what is this, I read you have to avoid it!

Other tips

• I usually pre-wash the fabric for quilts and binding so I don’t worry about washing the quilt (I don’t worry about shrinkage and excess dye). If you did not pre-wash fabric, use dye catchers when you wash the quilt for the first time.
• Before washing
  I trim the excess batting and backing to about 1″ away from the edge of the quilt top- this speeds up the drying process.
• When the quilt is FINISHED, I use a lint roller to clean the entire surface of the quilt.

Conclusion

So, with or without binding, a quilt suffers some grade of distortion when it is washed for the first time. And I think it is better to work out that distortion before adding binding. The binding would limit what you could do to solve the problems.

NOTE I washed my latest quilts (three or four) for the second time (I took them outside for photography and then I had to wash them again). The quilts kept the perfect shape after the second washing.

So this is how I wash my  heavily quilted quilts. I don’t know if it is better or worse than other quilters do. But it works for me- every time!
What do you think? How do you wash your quilts?

Geta

It’s important to wash your linens regularly, but in the case of delicate quilts, different rules apply. Quilts can easily be damaged by most of our modern cleaning methods, and should ideally be hand washed using detergents that are free of any dyes, bleach, or scents. Though they can be cleaned in a washing machine, it can be risky, particularly if the quilt is vintage or handmade. 

Because quilts are made of multiple fabrics and colors, it’s extremely important to do a test for colorfastness before washing, especially if any sections have vivid, highly saturated colors that might bleed. To do this, dip a clean piece of cotton in hot water, then gently rub it on a small, unseen area of the quilt. If the color fades or bleeds onto the cotton, avoid machine washing, and consider using a professional color catcher while washing.

• Needle and thread
• Gentle, dye-, and perfume-free detergent
• Distilled while vinegar
• Non-iodized salt
• Color catcher
• Hamper or laundry basket
• Heavy towels
• Drying rack

Carefully examine the quilt to ensure there are no small tears, loose threads, or stretched seams. If there is anything to be mended, use a needle and thread to patch it up before you wash your quilt. 

Because of its size and weight, the best place to wash your quilt is the bathtub. First, give your tub a quick cleaning to make sure there are no chemical residues that can potentially damage the quilt, then fill it halfway with cold water, and add detergent and color catcher (if using) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Hand washing a quilt in a bathtub is bound to cause spills, so wear casual clothes, and expect to get wet. It's also a good idea to clear off your bathroom floor, and keep a mop and heavy towels on hand in case they’re needed. 

Put one end of the quilt into the tub and gradually feed in the rest, which will ensure the quilt will not become tangled, and will be evenly saturated with water and detergent. Add more water and detergent as needed to make sure the quilt is fully submerged. 

Carefully swirl your quilt around in the water for about 30 seconds, doing your best not to splash water out of the tub. Allow the quilt to soak in the water for about 15 minutes, giving it a few more gentle swishes halfway through. 

Leaving the quilt in the tub, drain the soapy water. Refill the tub with cold fresh water and gently agitate the quilt for about one minute to help release any dirt and detergent. Drain the tub, refill with cold water, and repeat until the water is clean and soap-free. 

Once the rinsing water is clear, add ½ cup of distilled white vinegar to remove any residue left behind by the detergent, again gently agitating the quilt for about one minute. Adding vinegar will keep the quilt’s fabrics soft and pliable once it dries. 

Drain the tub fully, then begin pressing each area of the quilt with your hands to push out any excess water until your hands can press no more. (This will take some time, so be patient.)

Quilts are heavy when they are wet, and a second set of hands will help make the drying process much easier. 

Remove the quilt from the tub, putting it straight into a clean hamper or laundry basket with a heavy towel on the bottom to soak up any drips. 

Quilts are big, bulky items, and if they cannot fit and move freely in your washing machine, you shouldn’t try to force them. If that’s the case, either hand wash your quilt as outlined above, or have it professionally dry cleaned.

Carefully examine the quilt to ensure there are no small tears, loose threads, or stretched seams. If there is anything to be mended, use a needle and thread to patch it up before you wash your quilt. 

Set the machine to a gentle cycle, using cold water only. Add gentle detergent following the instructions on the bottle. Even if you use gentle detergent, it’s still possible for your quilt's colors to fade when machine washed. To help keep them bright, you can add half a cup of non-iodized salt into the wash cycle, or a cup of vinegar into the rinse cycle.

Quilts should be air dried, but to help speed things up, and to remove any excess water your hands may have missed, you can give it a head start in the dryer. Use low heat and your dryer’s delicate setting, stopping once the quilt is damp.

To prevent the quilt’s threads from being strained or snapped while drying, avoid the clothesline and dry your quilt flat. The best way to do this is with an extra-large drying rack, but if you don’t own one, make a thick bed of towels on a flat area in direct sunlight and evenly spread the quilt out on top, just as you would across a bed. Check on the quilt regularly, adjusting it as needed until it is fully dry throughout. 

Unlike sheets and blankets, it’s best to wash quilts as infrequently as you can manage. Quilts are too delicate for regular washing, which can damage the fabric, and cause the quilt to degrade. If you use your quilt every day, you may only need to wash it about twice a year. However, if you have pets that like sleeping on your quilt, you may want to wash it more frequently, but still, try to keep deep washing to a minimum. 

To freshen up your quilt between deep cleanings, air it out regularly, preferably outdoors. When you are not using your quilt, wrap it in a cotton bag and store in a dark, dry place, like a closet. (Avoid basement closets, which can get musty.)

While in storage, take your quilt out about once a month and fold it in a different direction, which will prevent it from becoming misshapen, or from developing creases.